European city breaks

Train pulled in at train station

Karen McIntyre recreates her student days of InterRailing, taking the train to five cities in five days

Once the student rite of passage, InterRailing is back in fashion. Besides being fast and environmentally friendlier than flying, it is no longer the preserve of budget travellers. Rail Europe now sells first-class InterRail passes, which are now available in much shorter three day durations.

Eager to put the trains to the test, I embarked on a whirlwind InterRailing trip. For just over £250, my first-class Global Pass ticket allowed me five days of travel within 10 days to as many as 30 European countries. My journey would see me hop from London to Antwerp, Amsterdam, Cologne, Luxembourg and finally Paris – spending roughly 24 hours in each city.

London to Antwerp

Waiting in the London St Pancras departure lounge to board the 8.05am train to Brussels, I was surrounded by smart businessmen in suits sipping cappuccinos and tapping away on laptops. The experience was rather like waiting to board a business jet. Inside, the train didn’t disappoint – I enjoyed a carriage almost to myself, and an organic breakfast of croissants, yogurt and omelette.

It almost seemed a pity to have to disembark just under two hours later in Brussels, where I changed and caught a 20 minute train to Antwerp. In just under three hours I had been transported to another world – one of cobbled streets, Flemish art and chocolate shops. I spent much of my time in cosy cafes, where everyone sits around a large, wooden communal table. The rest of my time was spent drifting down the Meir, the city’s largest shopping street, trying very hard not to spend money.

Antwerp to Amsterdam

The 2.59pm InterCity train to Amsterdam took just over two hours and was equally as pleasant as my Eurostar experience. Amsterdam on a Saturday afternoon was buzzing with activity – the station was crowded, trams were packed and the streets heaved with shoppers and sightseers.

This was my first visit to Amsterdam and there seemed too much to fit in. But perhaps this is what InterRailing is all about – dipping into a city, rather than getting under its skin, and not feeling like you have to see everything.

As it turned out I did pretty well, fitting in a visit to Anne Frank House, the Van Gogh Museum, a brisk walk though the Red Light District, a saunter around the pretty flower market and a few Danish waffles along the way.

Amsterdam to Cologne

The 4.34pm ICE train to Cologne was a peaceful, two-and-a-half hour journey through lush countryside. When hopping from city to city and country to country, you can never quite predict what you’ll find at the next stop.

Cologne was a surprise, not least because I had (inadvertently) arrived in time for the highlight of the city’s calendar – the annual carnival. The scene at Hauptbahnhof station was one of mayhem, with revellers laughing and singing, dressed in extraordinary outfits. I located my guesthouse only to find no one in, so trekked to a squeaky clean hostel across the Rhine.

At 10am the next day people started to fill the cobbled streets of the old town, drinking the local Kölsch beer and singing along to music. The crowd quickly geared itself up for a huge procession that would wind its way through the city. Even when the rain came down no one’s spirits seemed dampened. Still, I was relieved to be jumping on an early train to Europe’s smallest country – Luxembourg.

Cologne to Luxembourg

The ICE 434 was blissfully smooth and came complete with a separate canteen-style eating area. Luxembourg is just 57km wide and 82km long. But despite being tiny, the country boasts its own monarchy (Grand Duke Henri), its own language (Letzebuergesh) and one of the healthiest economies in Europe.

Luxembourg also has a fairytale origins – a Count called Sigefroi reputedly built a castle on a high promontory around 1000 years ago, laying the foundation for a dynasty that spawned rulers throughout Europe.

Orderly, pretty and reserved, Luxembourg City was just what I needed after my carnival experience. My time was spent peacefully wandering the cobbled streets of the Old Town, which takes about an hour, and stopping off in a number of patisseries.

Luxembourg to Paris, then home

By the time I caught the two-hour TVG 2881 to Paris I was looking a little dishevelled and rather out of place among the well-dressed French people on board. Meanwhile, the TGV tore through the French countryside at blistering speed.

In Paris, I climbed to the top of the Montmartre district for a panoramic view of the city and checked out a few of the most popular attractions, such as Cathédrale Notre Dame and Musée d'Orsay.

After an enjoyable day in Paris it was time to hop back on the Eurostar to London. Once again, the first class service exceeded expectations. Attentive waiters served up a delicious cooked three-course meal, with fine wine to match.

Arriving back where I started at St Pancras station at 11pm, after a total of 15 hours of train travel, the experience felt rather like a strange dream.

More information

InterRail rail passes start at £182 for an adult standard class pass which is valid for five days of travel in a 10 day period, in up to 30 participating countries. All prices are per person and subject to availability. For bookings visit www.raileurope.co.uk or call 0844 848 4070.

Eurostar deals begin at £59 for return tickets to both Paris and Brussels. For bookings visit www.eurostar.com

Karen’s top five attractions

  1. Mode Museum, Nationalestraat 28, Antwerp www.momu.be Antwerp’s fashion museum showcasing the work of young designers from the Fashion Institute.
  2. Van Gogh Museum, Paulus Potterstraat 7, Amsterdam www.vangoghmuseum.nl The world’s largest collection on Van Gogh’s works.
  3. Anne Frank House, Prinsengracht 267, Amsterdam www.annefrank.org The house where Anne Frank wrote her famous diaries.
  4. Museum Ludwig, Bischofsgartenstrasse 1, Cologne www.museenkoeln.de A great collection of Pop Art, German Expressionism and photography. 
  5. Musee d’Histoire de la Ville de Luxembourg, 14 Rue du St Esprit www.musee-hist.lu A beautifully presented exploration of the city’s 1000-year history.